Recap
Here's a list of the key points that we hoped you've picked up from
the tank session and your first outing on the water.
"Forward" and "Backward" are used relative to the direction
you face (eg "forwards" actually means towards the stern of the boat).
"Inside"/"Outside" refer to the sides of your body which are closer/
further away from your rigger.
- Stretcher
- Your footplate should be adjusted
[Picture] so that
- You can get your knees flat without your seat hitting the back
of the slide
- You can get forwards to full compression without your seat hitting
the front of your slide
- Generally this means that short people will need their stretchers close
to them and tall people move them further away.
- Hand Positions
-
When the blade is "square", ie the tip is vertical, both wrists should
be flat relative to your forearms. This is to allow you to pull with
maximum effort during the "drive" phase, ie when the blade is in
the water.
- You should have your outside hand at the end of the handle -
preferably with your little finger over the tip of the blade
[Picture]
to help keep the oar pushed outwards against the gate
- Your inside hand should be approx 2 handwidths further down,
ie about 6-8" of handle visible between your hands
[Picture]
- Backstops
- This is the position
[Picture] from which you will normally start a
piece of rowing, corresponding to the "finish" of the stroke.
- Blade handle drawn up to ribs, outside hand just touching ribcage
- Blade floating in the water (not in the air)
- Blade square, although if the boat is moving you may have to
have it partly feathered to let the water flow under it
- Hands Away
- This is the position at which you will normally finish a piece of
rowing, corresponding to the first part of the recovery (the "Hands"
in "Hands - Body - Slide")
- Arms should be straight so that the blade is perpendicular to the
boat
- The handle should be pressed down so that the blade is clear of
the water (allowing the boat to continue running)
- The blade is normally feathered (unless you've just been
rowing square blade)
- On the command "Drop" you can let the blades drop down on to
the water (feathering first, if still square)
- Stroke Cycle
- The rowing stroke is split into four parts
- The Drive - when the blade is in the water and pulling
- The Finish - the end of the stroke where you extract the blade
- The Recovery - getting yourself into position for the next stroke
- The Catch - placing the blade in the water at the start of the
stroke
- Drive
- During the drive phase the "spoon" (painted part) of the blade should
be fully covered but the shaft should not be
[Picture]
- Start by pushing your feet against the stretcher, leaving
everything from the waist upwards "hanging" from the oar handle
[Picture]
- As the knees go flat use the back and shoulders to continue the
pressure on the oar
- As the shoulders go back past the vertical allow the arms to bend
to finish off the stroke
[Picture]
- For most people, all you really need to think about is pushing with
the legs and the rest usually looks after itself.
- Finish
- If rowing "square blade", you can just
use both hands to tap down lightly
on the oar handle to release the blade from the water. Do this when
the oar is a couple of inches away from your body to make sure that
you have enough room
- Feathering, ie rotating the blade so that the tip is horizontal
between the strokes
[Picture],
allows maximum clearance over the water and
minimum wind resistance, also a little more length on the finish,
is actually "normal" rowing but takes a little more coordination:
- Tap the handle down (as in square blade
rowing) with the outside hand.
Try to keep the outside wrist flat as you do this
otherwise it will not be so effective at lifting the blade out.
- As you tap down with the outside hand, drop the inside wrist and use
the thumb and fingers to rotate the handle.
- If you get it right, the tip of the blade should describe a quarter
circle: vertically up to start with, then rolling on to the horizontal
- Recovery
- The mantra is "Hands - Body - Slide"
- Hands - push the oar handle away until the arms are straight
- Body - rock the shoulders forwards until the oar handle is past
your knees [Picture]
- Slide - gradually lift the knees letting the seat move forwards
- We often break the stroke down to use only the first ("arms only")
or first and second ("with body swing") parts of this sequence.
- Whatever length of stroke you are using you should always square up
the blade well before the catch
[Picture]
- if you feather "correctly" you will
actually notice that keeping the inside wrist pressed down isn't that
comfortable and you'll naturally want to let it rise until it's flat
with the blade squared up again
- Catch
- As you approach the catch (using full slide rowing)
[Picture]
- Your arms should stretch out at at 45 degrees to the
centreline of the boat
- your shins should come up to the vertical
- your chin should arrive over your inside knee
- your outside knee should be just outside your outside shoulder
- your thighs should come up against your chest (which is what limits
your reach)
- Then you just let the blade drop in (keeping arms loose and straight)
and, without letting the seat
pause, start the drive.
Anu Dudhia
(dudhia@atm.ox.ac.uk)